COASTER COG KING

I have a ton of variations of cogs for coaster brake and internally geared hubs. These are the three-tabbed, or as Sheldon Brown called them "3-lug", style cogs that are nearly universal to fit a variety of hubs: Shimano, Sturmey Archer, Suntour,  and Sram and Fichtel & Sachs. When I list these cogs I classify them in a three main ways:

1) Tooth count - the greater the number of teeth the easier the gearing for acceleration and climbing. Most internally geared hubs have a max number of teeth recommended for the rear cog. Using a tooth count higher than what is recommended can add extra torque on the internals of the hub and can damage them. A lower tooth count is harder to push but your bike will travel further for every revolution of your crank.

19 Tooth Fichtel & Sachs Gray Dished Sprocket

2) Dish - Most of these coaster cogs you will see out there have a few millimeters of dish. When looking at the cog from the side, you will be able to see that the "toothed" portion is offset from the "three tabbed" part that slides onto the driver. The dish of these cogs is reversible, so you can install the cog with the toothed portion inward or outward. The idea is to create the straightest chainline possible with your crank. The straighter the chainline from the crank to the cog, the quieter and smoother the chain will run, not to mention it reduces wear on the teeth and chain. On each eBay listing I quantify the amount of dish on each cog, usually around 2mm. I also carry a few non-dished (flat) cogs.

15 Tooth non-dished black (flat) cog

3) Color & finish - If you are working on a restoration you may want to get the exact brand and finish on the cog as the original. You will be able to find different brands with different detailed cuts and colors... so have fun!

Suntour 18 Tooth Silver Dished Cog

Sachs 3-Speed Cable Pulleys and Stops

I've always been a sucker for the golden area of bicycle part packaging... and one of the nicer example of that are these Fichtel & Sachs Torpedo Cable pulleys and stops for older three speed bikes. Back then, the shifting system of three speed bikes was less varied. Shifting cables were constructed with heads on each end, and they were sold with a pre-designated length of housing for different applications... which means all of the cabling had to be run externally to the frame and could not be passed through any holes in solid cable stops. Three speed bikes all used these for long time:

The housing stop is slotted for the cable to slip into from the side and the housing to sit in. You may take that for granted, but most modern housing stops on the market are solid and require that you thread the shifting cable through like thread through a needle. These parts are really a critical to a good restoration. Also, they come in the common 28.6 mm size for steel frames.

I don't have a ton of them, so get one while you can! http://www.ebay.com/itm/291808182809